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12 בJuly 2026Which blocks are better for anchoring stone cladding?
12 בJuly 2026How to choose the right chemical anchor
12 בJuly 2026How to choose the right plug for wall-mounting a TV
Mounting a TV on the wall — the full guide to identifying your wall and choosing the right plug
Plenty of people buy a television with a set of plugs meant for a concrete wall, and then discover on the day that their wall is made of something else entirely. Block, plasterboard, Ytong — each material needs a different solution, and using the wrong plug can bring the television down. This guide will help you identify what your wall is made of, and choose the right plug for it.
Step 1 — Identify the type of wall
Before you drill, work out what the wall is made of. There are three main methods:
The knock test
Rap on the wall with a closed fist, or with a knuckle. A solid concrete wall sounds dull and solid. A hollow wall (hollow block or plasterboard) sounds hollow and resonant. A Ytong wall (aerated block) sounds slightly soft, but still solid.
The test drill
Drill a small hole, 5–6 mm in diameter, and pay attention to three things: how hard it is to drill, what the dust looks like, and where you feel resistance:
| Type of wall | Difficulty drilling | Colour of the dust | How it feels |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete | Hard; it resists | Dark grey | Uniform all the way down |
| Hollow concrete block | Medium | Grey-orange | Resistance → void → resistance |
| Ytong (AAC) | Very easy | White | Smooth and uniform, like butter |
| Plasterboard | Very easy | Fine white | Very thin, then straight into air |
How do you tell a hollow block from a double plasterboard wall?
Both sound hollow, and both feel similar to drill. The difference is the thickness of the skin. In a plasterboard wall the board is only about 12.5 mm thick before you break into the cavity. In a hollow concrete block the skin is at least 25 mm. You can measure the depth to the void by putting a piece of tape on the drill bit as a depth marker.
Visual check
If the wall is bare (no plaster or paint) you can identify it directly. If it is plastered, look in an adjoining room, inside a cupboard, or at the edges of the wall beside the door frame — the material is often visible there.
Step 2 — How much does your television weigh?
Before choosing a plug, you need to know the total weight it has to carry. The figure that matters is the weight of the television plus the mounting arm:
| TV size | Typical weight | + wall arm | Total to design for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Up to 43" | 7–12 kg | 2–4 kg | Up to ~16 kg |
| 43"–65" | 12–25 kg | 3–5 kg | Up to ~30 kg |
| 65"–85" | 25–45 kg | 5–8 kg | Up to ~53 kg |
| Over 85" | 45–80 kg | 8–15 kg | Up to ~95 kg |
Safety factor
Choose plugs that will hold four to five times the actual weight of the television. For a 30 kg set, for example, each fixing point should hold at least 60 kg — so four plugs together hold 240 kg, eight times the weight. Dynamic forces (knocks, someone leaning on it) can double the load.
Step 3 — The right plug for each type of wall
Concrete wall
The ideal wall for mounting a television. You can use:
- The plugs supplied with the television — usually adequate for sets up to 55" on sound concrete.
- GX-L universal plug at 8 mm (around 200 kg) or 10 mm (around 400 kg) — reliable, and our recommendation.
- Concrete screw — quick to install, excellent in concrete, and needs no separate plug.
Recommended drilling depth: 50–60 mm in ordinary concrete. Make sure there is no reinforcement in the way — use a metal detector before you drill.
Hollow concrete block wall
Very common in Israeli homes. Success depends on drilling into a solid web of the block, not into the void inside it.
- TN4S plug at 10 mm — holds about 150 kg. Suitable for almost any size of television.
- TN4S plug at 8 mm — holds about 80 kg. Suitable for sets up to 55" where there are four fixing points.
- BA-NY plug, M6 — holds 110–150 kg, but it is more involved to install and needs a cavity behind the skin of the block.
A tip for hollow block
Before you drive the screw, insert the plug slowly and check that it is gripping the solid web. If the plug “falls inwards”, you have hit the void. Move 20–30 mm to one side and try again.
Ytong wall (aerated block — AAC)
A relatively soft material, which needs longer plugs to spread the load over a larger area. Short plugs will pull out of the wall easily.
- Long GX-L universal plug at 10 mm — holds about 180 kg. This is the recommended choice.
- Long universal plug at 8 mm — holds about 100 kg. Suitable for small to medium sets.
Do not use the plugs from the box
The plugs supplied with a television are for concrete only. In a Ytong wall they will not develop enough grip, and they may pull straight out. Always use a plug made for Ytong.
Plasterboard wall
The most awkward wall for hanging a heavy television. The board itself is thin and has no real grip of its own — you need to reach the metal stud behind it, if there is one, or use a purpose-made plasterboard anchor.
- BA-NY plug at 8 mm — a common choice, holding 80–120 kg. Suits most televisions up to 65".
- BA-NY plug at 6 mm — for small sets only (up to 43"), or for a double plasterboard wall.
- Metal spring toggle — better grip, but less convenient to install.
- The best option: find the metal stud behind the board with a metal detector, and screw directly into it — a far stronger fixing.
Large televisions on plasterboard — take care
For sets over 65" on plasterboard, we strongly recommend calling in a professional to locate the metal studs and screw directly into them — or reinforcing the wall from behind before installation. Do not rely on plasterboard anchors alone for a heavy television.
Quick selection table — plug by wall type and TV size
| Type of wall | Up to 55" (up to ~20 kg) | 55"–75" (up to ~40 kg) | Over 75" (over 40 kg) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete | Plug from the box / TN4S 8 mm | TN4S 10 mm | TN4S 10 mm × 4 points |
| Hollow block | TN4S 8 mm | TN4S 10 mm | TN4S 10 mm × 4 points |
| Ytong | GX-L 8 mm, long | GX-L 10 mm, long | GX-L 10 mm × 4 points |
| Plasterboard | BA-NY 8 mm | BA-NY 8 mm + metal stud | Metal stud only |
Before you start — a checklist
Ten minutes of preparation will save a lot of grief
- Identify the type of wall (knock test + test drill).
- Check the weight of the television plus the arm.
- Choose a plug suited to the wall material and the weight.
- Use a metal detector to find reinforcement, pipes and electrical cable.
- Drill to the correct diameter for the plug you have chosen.
- Clean the dust out of the hole before inserting the plug.
- After driving the screw, check by hand that the plug is completely solid before you hang anything.
- Do not hang the television on your own — get help.
Frequently asked questions
Are the plugs that come with the television good enough?
Usually they suit a concrete wall only. For block, Ytong or plasterboard, use plugs made for that specific material.
What if I do not know what the wall is made of?
Drill a small test hole (5 mm) and look at the dust, the drilling resistance and the feel. If you are still unsure, choose the plug appropriate to the softest material it could be. Better to be over-specified than to take a risk.
How many fixing points do I need?
Most television brackets come with four fixing points to the wall. For sets up to 55", two points with strong plugs is sometimes enough — but four is always better, because it spreads the load.
Do I need a spirit level before installing?
Yes. A spirit level (a bubble level, or an app on your phone) is essential if the television is to hang straight. Mark the drilling points at the right viewing height — the centre of the screen should sit at the eye level of a seated viewer, roughly 105–115 cm from the floor.